Nordlandsbanen railway journey in North Norway

I love travel by train in Norway, especially long distance railway where you are guaranteed an overdose of scenic landscapes both under, over, in between and straight through the Norwegian mountain world.

I have often travelled by the beautiful Bergensbanen and Raumabanen, and last summer I finally got the chance to travel both ways with the lengthy Nordlandsbanen (Nordland Railway) together with my dear puppy dog.

After finishing my work season in Lofoten I and puppy took a rolling and stormy ride with the ferry from Moskenes to Bodø where the night train along Nordlandsbanen was waiting us.

This railway train are solid, comfortable and always on time departing twice a day all year round. The train crew are very helpful and friendly – it’s not expensive either, from Trondheim to Bodø ((10 hours/729km)) for me and puppy on the morning train costs 45 EURO, and if you are lucky the free wifi Internet works too 😀

nordlandsbanen train trip norther norway railway travel dog

On the night train back I slept in my train chair (the sleepers don’t allow pets) and puppy slept on her plaid on the floor. You can collect a freesleeping package” from the train’s NSB Kafé which includes a nice fleece blanket, ear plugs and a blindfold – and we both fell asleep for most of that night after passing the Polar circle …again.

My sleeping beauty – I asked the train crew when the longest train stops occurred to let her out for a peenordlandsbanen night train trip norther norway railway travel lapphund dog

 

Please find seasonal/minute by minute inspiration in this beautiful NRK/NSB video of Nordlandsbanen:

10 hours later: Next morning we wake up in Trondheim where a couple of hours with the corresponding morning train to Otta is waiting. A spontanious dog meeting was on that morning, so very nice to meet other traveling pets and their superfriendly owners.

 

The helpful bus driver took us from Otta station and up the serpentine roads I biked up last year, and this time it was pretty luxurious to just sit there and enjoy the awesome views without any effort.. for once. We got off at Mususæter and breathed in that fresh mountain air.

 

The two last kilometers towards my little paradise me and puppy walked while I rolled my bags and large suitcase on my kickbike (I used it to get to/from work in Lofoten), as small suitcase wheels are simply not made for gravel. I guess we where an odd, colorful and noisy procession along that peaceful mountain road.

Then finally we arrived to our goal – that very same mountain pasture in Rondane I had last year.. now I was really looking forward to spend 4 nights here, this time together with my happy puppy.

So wonderful to finally be back here, settle down by the fireplace and plan for an absolutely breathtaking mountain climb the very next day!Mysusaeter seterhytte by the fire relax Norwegian socks mountain cabin

Will be continued……

For more information and travel video of the Nordlandsbanen – visit this link at NSB (in English)

Biking, Hiking and Fishing Tour from Norway to Sweden

For the third time I was ready to start my lil’ solo bicycle tour after finishing my seasonal summer work in Tafjord, Norway. This year I planned to bicycle from Tafjord to Östersund in Sweden. I had a final date to keep to be home, but to avoid stressing  (after all this was my little vacation this year) I started wheeling with an open mind and no rigid plan to follow.

On the road I think my personal highlights was once again to be back in lovely Åndalsnes (where my father came from), downhill Trollstigen and climbing the new Romsdalsstigen Via Ferrata , I also had the pleasure to try the new Dovre bicycle route over Dovre mountain range (someone later called it Tour De Dovre ), tested out my good fortune in fishing in Vålåsjøen lake and hiking Mehøe. An evening in beautiful Røros museum area and then somehow ended up in a very nice fish-camp in Storsjön, Sweden. 

I met a lot of nice people, got lots of good memories, and would like to share my map and photos for travel inspiration to others who want to do a similar route. And, don’t be afraid to ask if you have a question regarding this.

I have created this map on Google including my travel photos and some travel information/advice:

 

You can view all the map photos above in a collection right here:

 

 

Norways’ National Day – Gratulerer med dagen

What a beautiful sunny day to celebrate the Norwegian National Day, I really wish I was home to celebrate with friends and family, but not this year. I will of course miss my mothers delicious sour cream porridge, but I will make something tasty traditional food when my son comes home this evening.

From last years celebration I have lovely memories when I was home working at Jostedalsbreen National Park center on May 17th, the visitors really appreciated that my boss and I decided to dress up in our national costumes at work, we had to pose on photos all day! 😀 That same evening I wanted to have my own photos from our National Day – and the very best place around was to hike up to beautiful Segestad to get them ❤

🇧🇻️ Gratulerer med dagen Norge!  🇧🇻

17 mai nasjonaldag national day Norway costume bunad festdrakt segestad

 

Hiking Sunndalen mountain valley

At first I thought this mountain valley hike would become the most dull and grey one, but it turned out absolutely magnificent! It would also be my very last hike in the spectacular Jostedalsbreen National Park and Stryn area before I leaving for next work and new outdoor adventures . I only met 2 hikers on this trail, so it’s a perfect hike for those who want to feel nearness to nature in peaceful, beautiful environments.

The weather started out grey with some rain drops now and then, and I admit – it was bit tempting to stay in the cosy cabin to do some extra work on my laptop, but it was a day off so I wanted to just get out..and up!

It started as usual with a bicycle trip from the farm cabin in Oppstryn and around the end of Oppstrynsvatnet lake towards Hjelledalen, where I at Folva took off to Sunndalen mountain valley on a gravel road leading through a goat farm..

 

After a couple of km I parked my bicycle by a tree to hike the rest of the road and then on the marked trail. The goal was the mountain pasture Sunndalssætra, and all the way up I would be accompanied by the beautiful river Sunndøla all the way up to the magnificent waterfall Tverrelvfossen.

Tverrelvfossen it a very photogenic waterfall, especially during the melting period – looks like a bridal veil fluttering in the wind. Tverrelvfossen waterfall foss stryn sunndalssetra sunndalen landscape turjenter hike

It is mostly an easy trail, so this is a nice hike for families too. You will pass a bit of history (PineGuri-steinen), beautiful lush nature, the magnificent waterfall Tverrelvfossen …and of course enjoy your packed lunch at the old mountain pasture Sunndalssetra (depopulated due to frequent rock slides in the older days). There is an available outhouse there too, and also an abandoned lodge house.

Travel info:

  • If you are up to longer and tougher hikes for days this old (but restored) trail continues and will take you over the mountain passing Kamperhamrane, Skridulaupbu to Skjåk or Grotli on the other side, old routes often used by drovers, shepherdess and traders back in the old days. (See this link for more information).
  • I found this informative pdf-file online at Turbok.no including guiding trail photos: Map, info and trail photos for hiking Sunndalen and Sunndalssætra (pdf-file)

Map ( Opens up in http://www.ut.no)map kart sunndalen sunndalssetra hike trail tur stryn

Any questions about this hike? Just ask 🙂

 

Via Ferrata Loen

Shortly before the second bicycle tour from Oppstryn to Loen I found my bicycle punctured by a push-pin, and I had no mending-kit available at that time. But the very kind cabin landlord saved my sorry ass by lending me her own bicycle – as she knew I had booked a climb up the famous Loen Via Ferrata route. My panniers fitted nicely, so off I went!

Arriving Loen camp site I first put up my little tent, and decided to include a bike and hike into Bødalsbreen glacier that very same evening…. most probable because I longed for a bicycle ride along that beautiful Lovatnet again. The weather was shifting, and the last part of the road ascending up to Bødalssetra trail was tough so I had to push the bike up.

From Bødasseter it takes about 30-45 minutes to hike into the foot of Bødalsbreen glacier. Expect some snow and slush along the trail early in season, (I was here at the end of May 2017). If you want to see a beautiful photo of how far down this glacier arm once reached (among green grass and flowery meadows) many years ago – then do pay a visit to Loenvatn Feriesenter 

 

 

Via ferrata Loen. Next morning I woke up in a hot sunbathing tent! Luckily in weather again! I biked down to the Loen Active center to join the fully booked groups, as first time on this route I didn’t want to climb it alone. We would actually climb up to Hoven (1011 masl) and take the Loen Skylift down again. Everything is located in central Loen and easily accessible, we just choose to take the long way up ..ha..ha.

A magic bicycling ride along the Lovatnet lake once again – the sun is shining and life is good!Lovatnet bike trip Lodalen bødalen

 

It turned out to be an absolutely spectacular day with fun and awesome people in my climb group, a super hot and sweaty rock face to force… and breathtaking views!  The only bad thing was my GoPro who decided to die right before the climb (battery),  oh so annoying – but in my group we used each other’s phones to still get some photos of a memorable day.

 

 

Gjølmunnebrua suspension bridge (below) wasn’t that scary actually, a bit shaky perhaps… my lil’ group decided to skip the wire bridge further up as it was clogging/queuing with people that day, instead we continued straight to the top and grabbed an ice-cold beer before the bar closed at HovenLoen skylift took us all the way down again in just minutes. 

 

Travel information:

Finally, just personal via ferrata-advice from me: in the peak season it is smart rent the necessary equipment and climb the route without a guide (if you know how to climb via ferrata of course) – to avoid waiting a long time every time a crux is clogging with less experienced climbers.  But I don’t regret joining that guided group first time here as it was extra fun and social, and not so “desolated” as it felt when I later climbed the via ferrata Skuleberget on my own.

 

Map from Loen to Bødalsseter mountain pasture and Bødalsbreen glacier

Having a break with an awesome view towards Lovatnet.Loen via ferrata norway climb

 

 

Erdalsetra – Vetledalseter hike and lodge

Well, who the heck can resist a quick refreshing dip in crystal clear glacial river after a hot hike? Only Strynekåpa was watching.. I think 😀

Oppstryn. This pearl of a hike through glacial valleys and precipitous mountain sides is as long or as short as you want it to be, do a morning speed hike, a day trip with your family or stay overnight. I did one of the “longer” versions since I had to bicycle upwards the part most people drive up, and as my “roommate” had her boyfriend coming for visit – it was a win/win opportunity to spend a night in one of DNT’s* mountain cabins. (you can too! – se more information at the end of this post).

Along this trail you will here and there have a glimpse of Jostedalsbreen parts among the mountain peaks, wich is the largest glacier on the European mainland.

Having a break from bicycling upwards.. the view is awesome..down there is Oppstrynsvatnet, but this time I will take you away from the lake for a day and into glacial valleyserdalen bicycle oppstrynsvatnet oppstryn stryn hiking vandring fjelltur nature landscape view travel blogger

It was a wonderful morning with the very best weather to wish for.. after biking a while on the main road 15 to the end of the lake, I took off upwards and into Erdalen.. it was an absolute thrill bicycling along this mountain road while the mist was still covering the mountain peaks..

Now and then I could hear or see the rumble and roar when spring avalanches came sliding downwards along the mountain side..Erdalen Jostedalsbreen mountain hike view

Finally I reached the parking area Loppeset where also the trail starts, and left my bicycle lashed to a tree. The first part of the trail into Erdalsetra/Storesætra is nice and easy. still slightly covered with a little bit soft snow here and there in the spring.

Arriving at Erdalsetra a cute dog came running to welcome me. I started to talk to a woman who was cleaning and preparing her old mountain hut for the summer, and she invited me in to see the old hut inside. Oh so very cosy and charming. Nnd now and then mountain teams sleep over in the cabins before they start crossing the Jostedalsbreen glacier.

A very welcoming sight indeed, a happy welcoming dog, scenic views and gorgeous old mountain farm huts – I am in heaven for a while…Erdalsetra ERdalen hiking seter mountain farm Strynekåpa

While we sat there talking at that old awesome carved wood table she showed, me we heard that rumble again, she shouted that it was a big part of Skadefonna (avalanche) that was coming down the mountain side, so we ran out to see it.. and got it on tape too.. wohaa what a sight! .. it can be a bit scary if you don’t know what is happening, but as long as you are in a safe distance it is a really cool experience, and happens most often during spring time…

After saying goodbye I continued on the last part to Vetledalssetra, with a bit more snow along the trail, but fully possible to handle. I had the DNT-key* to access the cabin (in case it was locket), and packet up my stuff indoor and took an extra afternoon hike uphill and could not resist a quick wash in the crystal clear glacial river. You can also continue to the right of Strynekåpa for a shorter hike up to the emergency hut Infimus to get a closer view of the glacier. 

Strynekåpa is for sure a guiding monument through this hike, and the peak are looming about 1530 m.a.s.l. over the valleys.. trails both to the right and left side of it leads up to enter the glacier itself.. where you will need a guide if you are not experienced!hiking strynekåpa stryn erdalen vetledalen trail vandrin turg

I can tell you right away that nothing extraordinary or too exiting stuff happened on this hike, I was just enjoying the peaceful solitude with no internet connections..(yeas I tried alright), and taking care of the need to reload after being super-social… give my head a rest and fill up with energy.

Surroundings like this is of a very healing nature, and it is absolutely wonderful that doctors finally have started to prescribe it as medicine for mental health!

At Vetledalssetra there are a few but very beautiful and well maintained huts still in use… this one is my favourite!Vetledalsseter hytte cabin traditional Strynekåpa mountain Jos

The only “happenings” here was me getting the wood-burning stove going (the gas stove was empty) to cook a simple supper and a gigantic cup of coffee on it, enjoying the beautiful sunset outdoor, accompanied by rumbling glacier avalanches now and then …and a glass of white wine on top of it all (someone left it in the cabin for someone like me..ha..ha). A lovely day and just what I needed to reset and reload.

Who needs TV or Internet here? Nobody!!vetledalsetra DNT hytte cabin fjelltur cosy lodging firewood nature mountains natural jostedalsbreen vandring vetledalen hiking trail stryn oppstryn travel blog

Since no other hikers came along that evening, I decided to  stay in the living room near the wooden stove and sleep on a old wooden sofa  – oh it was so nice to just lie there looking out on the snow-covered mountain peaks and listen to the crackling fire-place…. guess who slept like a stone!

A wonderful day is turning into night, and even if I am alone I feel so safe up here and wish everyone in this world could feel the same… the old gneiss hut to the right is almost as beautiful and steady as the mountain itself, built to last… more of that please..Vetledalsetra sunset mountain farm glacial valley

 

Map and information:

This route is an old road/cattle track used to get up on and crossing the glacier (the glacier reached further into the valley those days) to the other side, bringing their livestock all the way over the glacier to provide people on the eastern side of Norway with fresh meat. Just imagine the sight of this procession – wow!

Map and some further information at UT.NO

kart map oppstryn erdalsetra storesæter vetledalsetra trail sti jostedalsbreen

 

DNT: As a member of DNT (The Norwegian Trekking Association) you will also get a discount on lodging and food/supplies at most of DNT’s huts and cabins all over Norway, and also access to a key that will work on most cabin locks. It sure is lovely when you don’t need to carry a too heavy backpack when hiking in the Norwegian mountains. Read more at DNT’s homepage.

If you have any questions regarding this post, please ask, I am sure there are plenty of stuff I forgot to write about ! 🙂

Segestad mountain farm of Norway

Segestad (Sigdestad) mountain farm (ca 314 masl) was the first place I really wanted to visit in Oppstryn, wich ended up as a favourite place to go thank’s to it’s close availability. On our national day (May 17) I was dressed as most Norwegians would dress, first at work and then up at the mountain farm in the evening.

On my way biking around Oppstryn lake to visit Segestad – a bit to the left in the picture you see a tiny glimpse of Glomnesfossen and a farm you will pass before hiking up to the mountain farmstrynevatn oppstrynsvatnet segestad nordfjord

For my first visit I asked a work colleague to come along, and we bicycled about 10 km around the lake, passed the little cosy village Hjelle, before hitting the gravel road. There is a parking lot here (parking fee), but just make sure you don’t go up at the very first trail as you could end up hiking upwards on the wrong side of the river and waterfall (then you will have to hike much longer to cross the river). We discovered this far up and had to go down again ony to get up at the correct side, so we sure got a lil’ extra workout right there 🙂

Walk around on the farm outdoor and indoor and just take in all that beauty you will be surrounded bySegestad mountain farm oppstrynsvatnet

So just make sure you have the river on your right hand side going upwards the trail. You can also take a quick detour (signpost) to view the awesome waterfall Glomnesfossen, don’t miss it! It only takes about 30-60 minutes to hike up to the farm, all depending on your speed and fitness… and camera use!

The trail is a bit steep here and there, so just keep to the trail for safety and enjoy the views on your way up. Until 1723 they had to use a stepladder to get up to the farm!

You are welcome to go in and have a look around and eat your packed lunch in the old kitchen if the weather is bad – I have seen lots of photos of Segestad outdoor, but here you have some indoor photos too.. 

segestad window view oppstrynsvatnet

Finally up there you will have a spectacular view over Oppstryn lake, mountains and the areas around. I really loved to go up here just to sit and have a silent moment by myself after work. It is a popular summer place, but not crowded. I rarely met anyone up here, maybe because I was a bit early out that season.

Living room: I absolutely adore old and original furnishing – and yeah, I think my travel mascot adores the chair too! 😀Segestad furnishing cultural treasure indoor old fashion design

You are welcome inside and overnight!  The farm-house is abandoned but open to visitors, so you are welcome to go inside and have a look around, here and there you will also find information text for interesting facts and history about this cultural treasure.

There is a waters tap outdoor, electricity and an outhouse in the barn for your comfort. It is also possible to stay overnight in the farm-house for a very small amount (about 10 EURO per person). remember to contact the foundation/Segestads Vener first (mail me for their phone number).

A room for creation… it would be so cool to learn using this loom, but where the heck would I store something like this in my lil’ home?weave vevstol textile segestad oppstryn cultural treasure stryn

For your information: It is also possible to continue the trail inwards the mountains to get to Glomnessætra, and return along on the other side of the river. Hopefully I will have the chance next time I’m around.

Even if the sun don’t shine and the light is sharp the lake is an amazing sight from this mountain ledge. It’s about 300 meters straight down to a bunch of sheep here … and they will not soften any fall – so watch your steps.. later I will tell you why I always urge about this..segestad oppstrynsvatnet stryn nordfjord

A detailed trail view map from UT.NO

Tips! If you like short, steep and partly unavailable hikes to mountain farms – I would suggest you go for a hike up to Skageflå in Geiranger

Visit Stryn of Norway

So, there I was once again for the 3. summer, lashing my heavy packed bicycle in the car cargo room on Hurtigruten from Bergen. This time I spent only 1 night at MS NordNorge, and early next morning (devastated to miss that delicious breakfast-buffè onboard though) I disembarked at Måløy with my packed bicyckle and continued to Stryn and Oppstryn where I would live and work for about a month.

Oppstryn: The awesome view from the cosy cabin I shared with a colleague for a month. Pretty close to work, and only about 10 km to nearest grocery shop around the lake. Yez, it was always a panoramic pleasure to grab the bicycle and go shopping some food 😉Oppstrynsvatnet Oppstryn Stryn

It was very exciting to start at my new job at Jostedalsbreen National Park Center. Let me tell you, it was a very hectic month with so much new stuff to learn about the national park itself (fauna, flora, glaciers, history etc), work routines and other tasks at the center. But oh so interesting and varied, never a dull moment!

The center was undergoing a massive revamp, and one of the new things I really like is that they wanted to focus more on and offer local produced products to visitors –  like apple jelly made of apples from Flo village right across the lake, beer from the microbrewery Olden Bryggeri, locally hunted venison and cured meat from Stryn, delicious chocolate from Geiranger and Norwegian-made knit wear, and no more “made in Taiwan” – I fully believe this is the right way to go and a huge step up in travel business.

Back down at the lake again after an afternoon hiking up to a mountain pasture after work. This lovely view is only about 200 meters from my work place Jostedalsbreen National Park Center by the lake Oppstrynsvatnet 

And again I discovered how I really loved to meet and talk with the visitors, and to help and inform them about more or less hidden treasures to visit in the area, especially when I had been there myself and therefore able to give them good advice and details about the place.

Oppstrynsvatnet – just another glorious morning on my way to work – who wouldn’t like to go for a little rowboating right there? Oppstrynsvatnet Oppstryn Stryn

Stryn and Oppstryn do have a very central location – with famous attractions like Geiranger, Gamle Strynefjellsvegen, summer ski center, Loen, Lom, Jostedalsbreen and Olden as some of the super hot neighbours “just around the corner.”

NB! If you stay in Stryn area you will have access to a lot, but please check IF the mountain roads to Geiranger and Gamle Strynefjellsvegen are open at vegvesen.no – see the map or call them just to avoid the long way around or any disappointments as sometimes certain mountain pass will have to open late, and it is not done on purpose I can assure you 😉

So the sun don’t always shine – and we all know that. But unless it is pouring rain, I’m out there on my way to adventures, here somewhere along Oppstrynsvatnet on my bicycle heading for a weekend in Loen..magic..

I’m sure you understand why I was very determined to explore the area every second I was “off duty”. With no car and rear/no bus connections I instead trusted my bicycle to get around as I usually do in summer, it makes the hikes a bit heavier alright, but it was so much worth it! I think about everything I see and meet that most people just drive by!

And.. I still can’t believe how I managed to visit and experience all those places I did in this area despite the sorry weather sometimes, all the work for my clients in the evenings and of course my job at the center… that’s pure will and a huge bunch of curiosity right there!  😀

Passing by a boat house before I arrive the center of Stryn – I don’t think an ordinary mirror is necessary in Stryn, just go down to the lake and do your hair or make-up    Boat house lake naust Norway

Just you stay tuned, and I will show you a lot more of what I saw, did and hearted! ❤

 

Travel highlights and hidden gems of Norway

Are you already planning and ponder where to go this summer in Norway? Oh yes, there is SO MUCH to choose from – I know! So keep on reading and have a look to be inspired!

Talking about hidden gems. If you pay attention (and hopefully don’t just speed hike only to brag “Been there, Done that”) – then you will find small pearls like this.fugleegg i Loen birds nest eggs Nordfjord

Last summer I was going back home to work at my usual job at the Power and Avalanche Center in Norway for the summer, when I unexpectedly was offered a 2. job I really could not resist, so the first month would be at a new place in absolutely awesome surroundings – I’m sooo excited to show you!

I had also brought my laptop to work and be available for my usual clients – so no wonder I cherished every minute I had a couple of hours or a day off, I was out there hiking and bicycling to explore well-known and unknown gems and treasures in the area I was living, including several traditional mountain pastures that I absolutely adore to read the history of and to visit. You can too!

So, after packing my bicycle panniers and traveling to south of Sweden by train to leave my son at his father’s house and my two cats at a friend’s house for the summer (the puppy came to us later) – I finally found myself on the plain from Stockholm on my way home to Norway.

I often miss my family, especially during hard times – and it was a true pleasure, with tearful eyes, to fly over the beautiful mountains surrounding the city of Bergen and the island I grew up on. HOME!Norwegian flight Bergen view Norway travel

I only got 2 hectic days together with my family, we had to get stuff and a reasonable trek bike my mother wanted to give my son in Sweden, so I would use it in Norway to get around and bicycle it back to Sweden after my work season (my own trek bike I had to leave in Lofoten) – so this would be the 3rd summer I would do a solo bicycle tour – wich also would be my vacation and time for peace of mind. 

2 days off duty and I was on my bike that very morning on my way up to spend a night in the mountains. Let me show you more of this beautiful gem and where to stay ..soon to follow…

Now, if you would like my personal advice, photos and experiences of where to go for both well-known and hidden gems in spectacular Stryn, Loen, Rondane National park, Valldalen, Åndalsnes, Dovre bikeway, Røros .. etc ..(and only God knows where else I was at certain moments) – including where to bicycle, hike, go fishing, climb Via Ferrata or stay for a night in cabin or tent – then don’t miss out my upcoming post’s!

Here I am exactly where I wanted to be for a “reset” in between two jobs. On this panoramic and peaceful evening hike I’m looking towards Rondane mountain massif where I would bike and climb up the very next day… Rondane National Park mountains

Now, only a small delightful problem awaits, the decision agony when choosing among all the awesome photos I want to show you… can’t post them all can I ..ha..ha … but I have added some samples preview here for you – I hope you will stay tuned for more!

Looking towards my first place of work for the summer on the other side of the lake. I discovered some awesome gems to visit in this area, and here I am up at one of them. I will tell you guys more soon..Norway nature lake hiking mountain pastures Nordfjord panorama mountains

Warning! Now and then the Norway-posts will probable be interrupted with my newbie crochet creations (just cant’ resist) – and of course our every day life up here in Northern Sweden – but I’m pretty sure you can handle that too 😀

Skageflå hike

Busy little bee at workgeiranger skageflaa geiranger busy little bee photo liss myraas

Our Norwegian Queen adores this place – and now I understand why. The hike started when I jumped off the shuttle boat at Skagehola and more than 130 tourists gathered in the front to wave me goodbye. I was the only one to disembark, and they probably wondered where the heck I was going as there’s nothing more but som greenery, rocks and a steep high mountain wall to see there.

To continue the hike you know you have to go out and round it – hold a hand on the wire, place your feet nice and calm on the trail and you will be just fine – if I can, you can too!hiking geiranger fjord skagefla knivsfla trail norway landscape photo liss myras

 

And then you see it… the trail pops out of the first greenery at the foot of the mountain and clings itself upwards the rock face. Here and there you see a glimpse of some safety wires that hints about the possibility to get up here. I was just hoping it wouldn’t start raining resulting in a too exciting and slippery adventure.

It took me 30-45 minutes to get up to first stop Skageflå fjord farm, it depends on your condition, how much you want to enjoy the view and of course photographing. The first part is steeper “rock stairs” with iron fences, higher up you will have to rely mostly on wires at the most exposed/airy parts… that’s also the parts where my “ascending style” became much less elegant, so to speak ..ha…ha.

 

A thrilling hike with thrilling views – I bet you can’t resist to try out this hike 😉steep hiking trail geiranger skagefla photo liss myraas

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Reaching the first stop Skageflå (250 masl) I still was alone up there and also dared to sit on the edge for a moment and do this selfie… thinking about the people who lived up here on this shelf with their animals (goats) and children.. tough Norwegians that is! (and a pretty smart way to avoid the tax collector in former times) skageflå mountain farm geiranger fjord view visit norway landscape photo liss myrås selfie

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Skageflå fjord farm was one of the richest goat farms back in the days, but  a rock slide destroyed much of the cultivated land in 1873. People lived here until 1916, when the farm was abandoned. skageflaa fjord farm setra geiranger photo liss myraas

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Note! This lil’ minihut is not a toilet! – it’s a water well belonging to Skageflå fjord farm! But I saw a lot of tissues and stuff floating around in there. Please use the outhouse made for visitors instead!  As a visitor it is your responsibility to respect the clean environment and not to piss down UNESCO world heritages.. capisci?!  Things like this simply pisses me off alright… just sayin’…hikeing geiranger skageflå water well tourism travel photo liss myras

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The hike continued from Skageflå (250 masl) upwards to the fjord farm Homlongsætra (544 masl) through steep trails through some greenery and some exposed/airy wired parts on the rock face. But hey…don’t forget to actually enjoy the view too… it really IS breathtaking… don’t just hurry upwards or cling to a fence or a tree ..ha..ha.. find a spot where you feel safe and take in the view.geirangerfjorden skageflaa norwegian fjords travel hike trail photo liss myraas

At Homlongsætra fjord farm you can fill your water bottle from a fresh mountain stream and enjoy a fab view towards the Eagle Road on the other side of the fjord. From this farm a much easier and milder “forest trail” continues downwards along the edge all the way back to Homlong …and finally Geiranger.hike homlong track geiranger visit norway fjord unesco heritage landscape photo liss myraas

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Hiking down from Homlongsætra you will have a first class view towards the famous Eagle Road ( Ørnevegen). Everyon that have visited Ørnesvingen over there know it looks on this side beneath me on this picture – a sheer drop all the way down to the fjord… joodelii-hii-hoo..homlong geiranger eagle road ornevegen ørnesvingen

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One of the last peaceful and panoramic places on your way down from Homlongætra. Enjoy a rest/meal and the panoramic view of Geiranger surroundings from Homlong before you walk the last piece on the gravel road towards the hectic centre for a chilled cider. Geiranger fjord norway homlong cruise landscape photo liss myras

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The very next day I was on another awesome hike – I obviously don’t waste any time when I’m”off duty” and the weather is bearable  ….. pretty soon to come 😉

I have borrowed this overview picture from Camptocamp.org to show you the trail all the way from Skagehola to Homlong ..and Geiranger. If you choose to do the opposite way you will get a steeper and more visual exposed feeling – not recommended for those with fear of heights. It is easier to go up than down.map skageflaa homlonssaetra homlong geiranger

Sova under bar himmel..

…har jag gjort både frivilligt och ofrivilligt.. det första är ju att föredra, som också gav mersmak under fjolårets snöleopardexpedition i Kirgizistan, och nu tänkte jag återigen sova ute i frisk luft.

Under ett par jobbfria dagar i Norge bar det som vanligt upp i Tafjordfjella. Det tog ca en halvtimme att traska uppåt på fjällvägen innan jag kom fram till Onilsavatnet där jag svängde in på bergsstigen upp mot Kallskaret (skylt finns).

Vädret var mestadels grått och lätt regningt, och att traska uppåt i våt och überfrodig vegetation är absolut inte min favosyssla, men så är det ju bara i detta området, mycket grönt uppåt vissa fjällsidor. Det blev rätt så brant och halt ett stycke upp i grönskan, men till slut når man sista “screepartiet” för det sista stycket upp.

På väg upp mot den ca 20 meter höga monoliten Kallen som mestadels är gjort av oxiderat olivin. När man kommer helt upp (kring 1000 moh) befinner man sig i ett “olivinsk” månlandskap (jag skulle nu snarare seja marslandskap) där geologerna ibland kommer för att ta prover. Där uppe satt jag iallafall denna dag med ryggsäckens skydd över mig, åt en banan och väntade på att regn & vind skulle lugna sig. Och det gjorde det minnsann. Solen tog över. kallen tafjord

Jag fortsatte nu inåt i skönt fjällanskap, nyfikenheten brukar pusha mig framåt på okända stigar. Tänkte ta mig inöver och ner mot Herdalen på andra sidan. På väg neråt hade jag fikapaus vid den gamla Kallskarsætra där det kryllade av får. Träffade där på några trevliga fårbönder som jag slog fölge med resten av stigen ner och runt fina Herdalsvatnet.

Den här ytterst kramgoa lilla geten följde efter mig överallt på Herdalsetra, även upp på denna stenen. Aww..vilket charmtroll! Herdalssetra är stället för alla som gillar djur! (länkt finns länger ner på sidan)

heradsseter herdalen geit natur heregga foto liss myrås

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Herdalssetra är en 300 år gammal storseter som förespråkar ekoturism. Här kan du hyra en fäbod/sæterhus för natten eller köpa goda, hemmagjorda ekologiska getostkarameller – mums! Fåren, getterna och kossorna går fritt och betar här, med den ståtliga Heregga i bakgrunden. Och just uppe vid Hereggas “rasbrant” tänkte jag ju då minicampa den natten.

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Minicampen blev på en nerrasad gammal stenblock med mjuk mossa på, mest för att komma en lite bit upp från bushmarken. Jag låg vid rasbranten nedanför fjällväggen som sträckte sig rakt upp mot Hereggas topp, ja vilket syn å kika upp på från sovsäcken … och med vy ner mot Herdalsseter och Herdalsvatnet. Till slut somnade man till underbara ljudet från vattenfallet ca 150 m undan.

Fram med sovsäck, underlag och bivvy bag, det var skönt att få krypa ner och värma sig efter sörpiga stigar  – skorna hängdes upp till tork i trädet. Från ett mindre rasområdet längre bortåt vid vattnet kunde jag höra några stenar rasa iväg .. men kännde mig ganska trygg på det stället jag valde.  bivvy night outoor norway foto liss myrås

God natt – om inga järv besöker min lilla minicamp denna ljusa sommarnatt – så går allting bra. Bara ett gäng små gröna mätare som tyckte om bivvy bagen dök upp. Jag sov iallafall som ett lamm 5 timmar i sträck 🙂

bivvy bag sove natt under apen himmel Herdalsetra foto liss myrås

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Efter en enkel frukost nesta morgon packades storsäcken och jag traskade iväg. Nu gick det brant uppåt så man fick hålla i sig lite här och där. Äntligen uppe kunde man njuta av fjällets finfina stigar (upmärkta) inåt mellan Heregga och Holeheia.

Här får man bl a skåda störtfina berglanskap, flera små fjällvatten samt en iiiskall elv att kryssa genom att först slänga skorna över (för här och där låg det fortfarande en del snö och is och smälte) samt en och annan uppskrämd fjällripa.

Morgonfrisk panoramavy mot Herdalen jag pricis klivit upp från – och de läckra glasyrklädda bergen. Finns även en bergsstig där nere (mot vänster i bilden) man kan följa över till Geiranger, men hann tyvvärr inte med att ta den streckan själv i år.herdalen 2

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Och så var man till slut på väg ner mot Kaldhussætervatnet i lätt och fint terräng. Från bron vid Kalhussætervatnet fick jag gå ca 8 km på asfalterad fjällveg ner till fjorden igen där jag bodde – och då var ringen sluten! Man rundar hela Litlejordhornet på denna turen. 
tafjord kallskaret herdal kaldhusseter fjelltur foto liss myrås

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Här hittar du mer information om berörd område med kartinformation etc:

Herdalssetra (övernatting, djur, besök etc)

Valldal Turisinformasjon(aktiviteter & sevärdheter)

Tafjordfjella på UT.NO (kartor m höjd, topografi, märkta stigar, stugor, etc)