Offersøykammen hike in Lofoten

I still have a few more hikes and excursions to post from an awesome summer season in Lofoten, saving the very best ones for last. But first, for hikers that are looking for another quick, easy and thrilling hike up to a 360° panoramic view – today I give you the magnificent Offersøykammen.

Quick and nice trail up to Offersøykammen peak directly from the main road (E10). No steep sections before you get up to the top area – where it is very steep here, there and almost everywhere.. 😀Offersøykammen turjenter travelfinsk lapphund hiking

Getting there: 

As usual me and puppy took the bus from the very end of Lofoten (Å) – and jumped off at the bus stop before reaching the bridge over towards Leknes. We continued to walk about 10 minutes on the old road Offersøyveien until we reached some newer rorbu-cabins where the trail starts (there is a parking area in the other direction).

First we had to cross the main road (E10), and then we continued upwards on a nice and dusty dry trail that sunny day. There are some other trails to get up, but this is probable the quickest one. Take a look at my map below for further details.

Holding my GoPro-camera steady and keeping my curious puppy from going to near the steep edges – now that can (at times) sure be a tricky one alrightl!..ha..hatravel offersøykammen hiking fjelltur view point Lofoten

The beautiful views up there is of course stunning no matter where you choose to aim your eyes or camera. And as usual, me and puppy met other nice and curious mountains lovers from around the world on our hike, but it was thankfully not too crowded at the top that day.

One of my super nice colleagues had also made me an absolutely fantastic big nutritious sandwich of the super-tasty woodfire-baked bread from our work to enjoy at the top – that was really “icing the cake” that day.turmat sandwich Lofoten

 

Just sit down and grab your tasty sandwich – and enjoy a first class live show of nature for free! 😉
offersøykammen lofoten landscape topptur travel Norway

 

My dog really loves to hike…  here she have spotted some teasing birds in the air, better hold her well so she don’t jump over an edge to get them…offersøykammen finsk lapphund dognature landscape panoramic Lofoten

 

 

My map between the bus stops and Offersøykammen peak – click on the map to open a detailed map view 

map kart hike offersøykammen lofoten

 

So, if you have any questions regarding this hike, let me know.

Kjenndalsbreen glacier of Norway

One of my favourite alternative suggestions for visitors when I worked at the Jostedalsbreen Visitor Center was to visit Kjenndalsbreen glacier instead of Briksdalsbreen glacier. Briksdalsbreen is the most well-known and easy accessible glacier in the area, but Kjenndalsbreen is far more beautiful and much less crowded than Briksdalsbreen… and the narrow pictorial road along lake Lovatnet – leading you into the Kjenndalen glacier – will give you a godsmacking experience for sure!

The magnificent Kjenndalsbreen is a glacier spur of the main glacier Jostedalsbreen – I didn’t have a zoom lens, so this is one of the closest photo I could getKjenndalsbreen glacier

And I would not claim this if I hadn’t visited them both, Briksdalsbreen many years ago when I was attending tourism and travel-school has retreated a lot, and Kjenndalsbreen last spring/summer have retreated again too, but are still looking good – it was an absolutely breathtaking moment when the weather gods finally let the sun break through that magic evening – simply a “bellissimo viaggio”.

This was the first of 3 bicycle trips I did to Loen area when I was working in Oppstryn for a month. The weather was a bit dull & grey when I decided to pack my stuff and bicycle 35 km into the beginning of Lovatnet and stay over night.

Steep and narrow roads with great views – it is not boring I can promise you. And wow what a job to build these roads in the old days! Steep Norwegian roads Lovatnet

I intended to sleep in my tent, but when I had a “dinner-break” at Loenvatn Feriesenter I ended up getting a discount on a cabin since it was early season and I was solo. The friendly chef had a lot of knowledge about the glaciers in the area and also about the tragic history regarding the accidents at Ramnefjellet.

He also lended me a book about this, so if you want first hand information regarding these subjects, make a stop at this place! Combined with great food (their traditional “kjøttkakemiddag” is delicious – try it!), smiling faces and awesome views I had a very very nice and informative stay.

Back at the lodge that evening I went down to this little pier right below my cabin – and managed to take this nice photo of Lovatnet before the sun disappeared and the wind and rain took over during the night. Lovatn Feriesenter view

So, when I had packed up I decided to bike the remaining 17 km into Kjendalsbreen that same evening, as the weather seemed to lighten up even more. The bike trip into the glacier was a real thrill, and before the last km of gravel road starts you will have to move along some narrow steep road hammered in the mountain side…with a first class view to the rock slide wounds of the famous Ramnefjellet – wow what a magic evening!

On my way back to the cabin with the base of Ramnefjellet mountain in the background. Along this narrow road you will find information and a memorial tablet for the 74 people who died (41 never found) due to the 2 rock slides/flood waves caused by RamnefjelletLovatnet bicyel trip kjenndalen

There is a little parking lot and a outhouse at the end of the gravel road leading to Kjenndalsbreen glacier. You can fill your water bottle in the glacial river with clear conscience, just don’t fall into it. You have to walk 10-15 minutes on a trail if you want to get closer. There will be warning signs to stop you from going to close, mostly because of the falling rocks you will hear now and then from the mountain sides. It is a steep valley alright.

I found a big rock to sit on and just try to take in the magnificent views of the glacier and it’s surroundings – the glacier looks like ice candy and sugar fluff (I guess I was a lil’ bit hungry) 

At first I was totally alone there, but as the evening sun gradually broke through, 4 or 5 other persons popped up here and there to view this magnificent sight. The glacier has retired quite a bit alright, but is still an impressive sight up there with its white and blue ice. This valley will surround you with its many never-ending waterfalls, some greenery and the river flowing from the glacier in the middle – it is just one of the steepest and most beautiful valleys i have ever been to – ice-cold paradise! 

Back in the cabin for a meal and an evening sofa relax – with a view towards Lovatnet and Kjenndalsbreen at the far end of the lake. Well, good night then!loen lodge cabin view lovatnet feriesenter

Travel information/advice:

  • Stay in a cabin with great view, restaurant and bar, or hire a kayak at Loenvatn Feriesenter 
  • At the camping site Sande Camping nearby you can also rent a fishing rod
  • Before the last km gravel road you can take a break at Kjenndalstova café
  • You can also get to the cafe with the cruise boat MS Kjenndal
  • Bring a warm jacket and cap – the wind in the glacier valley can be rough

Click on the map to view it in detail live on Google MapMap Oppstryn Stryn Loen Kjenndalsbreen bicycle trip

Winter Wonderland skiing Christmas

The latest days have offered absolutely super skiing conditions with sparkling sun, 7 -8 minus degrees and lots of snow everywhere. So this is how I will celebrate Christmas, cross-country skiing outdoors while enjoying this magic winter landscape ..together with my lapphund dog of course .. you know, gotta get out and workout after som delicious old-fashioned traditional Norwegian Christmas food (I will show you some more of it soon) 😉

Trying my very best to show you the magic I see out there… not that easy managing the dog, the camera and the cross-country skis at once with frozen toes and fingers – but it is absolutely doable if you want it enough ..ha..ha..vinter landskap fores winter landscape skiing scandinavia nature outdoors

 

My finnish lapphund dog Jenta is doing so well learning to run with a “skiing leash” – but sometimes she find it so much more easier (and smarter) to free-ride on my skis right behind my legs when the snow is too deep.. I fully understand her.dog lapphund cross country skiing skitur

 

Just stop, imbibe the view and silence – hoping that the wonderful feeling this gives will be burned-in to my soul .. this is my way of healing..  

 

Now I want to wish you a lovely merry Christmas, I hope you don’t stress it too much… there are so many things we don’t need to celebrate Xmas.. enjoy what is most important in life.. deep down you already know what that is… see ya very soon folks… behave.. and drive carefully!

vinter landskap nordic forest winter landscape skiing scandinavia nature outdoors

Baking Nordlandslefser in wood fired oven

Yesterday I spent an interesting and fun day in a baker’s hut surrounded by beautiful winter wonderland. I hired the hut for a symbolic amount as I wanted to try baking Norwegian traditional “Nordlandslefse” or “Tjukklefse” in a real wood-burning baking oven. I’s a kind of griddle cake my mother used to serve us, and those days we always ate them with delicious chilled “rømme” (sour cream) on them as my mother loved all kinds of milk products.. yeah..she always did her own cottage cheese too, and still doo.

The super cosy baking hut I hired for a day. It was pretty cold outside, so firing up the baking oven and some candles made it really nice, warm and Christmas-ish…  örnsköldsvik bagarstuga vedfyrt vedeldad lefser tunnbröd stuga cabin

So, I started out making a little fire in the middle of the oven, It would take at least an hour to get the oven hot enough, so in meanwhile I prepared everything I needed on the baking table and finished the dough.

The baking hut also offered a great baking-board with hight-adjustment, but I just loved this wonderful outdoor winter landscape view and stayed working on the ordinary table by the windows – you fully understand don’t you?gottne bagarstugan lefsebaking winter view wood fired baking oven hut norwegian traditions food

When the firewood was turning black-ish I divided it carefully into smaller parts and spread it around the baking griddle for more heat, when hot enough I used an ovens scrape to push the red-hot embers aside to make place for baking, finally I took a blow pipe to blow away any rests of ash – ready to bake!

Sifting the flour to get a lump-free dough – and waiting for the firewood to turn into an ember baking paradise

The first thing I learned yesterday was to be very generous with the flour, if not you will have a living hell rolling out and handling the griddle cakes in the oven .. and just don’t be too generous with the salt of hartshorn, I was pretty close to the limit here, but the great taste overruled it ..thank God!

This female grinchen hobbit is very satisfied with the result from the first time with wood fired “lefsebaking”

The last pair of “Nordlandslefser” are getting baked in the slowly dying ember – I must say that the feeling of baking in a real wood-fired oven really boost the joy of baking.. I want more!Bagarstuga lefsebaking wood-fired baking Norwegian tradition scandinavia

I really had a great time baking “tjukklefser” here, I would have stayed much longer.. but needed to be home before my son got back from school.. so, this was certainly not the last time I rented this baking hut, the lessor also dropped by for a quick visit to taste the Norwegian griddle cakes, and wished me very welcome next time… looking forward of course, I already know what to bake.

Filling up with more firewood after baking – my lil’ dog has been a real doll today too, so patient indeedörnsköldsvik bagarstuga vedfyrt vedeldad lefser tunnbröd stuga cabin

 

The recipe for Nordlandslefser (Tjukklefse) – shot directly from the hips (so approximately):

  • 250 g melted butter
  • 1 cup white baking sirup
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 2-3 cups cultured milk/kefir
  • 2 eggs (fresh from Gottne äggbod)
  • 1 – 1 1/2 teaspoon salt of hartshorn
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • Ca 1 kg white flour

This is how I proceeded:

Basically I mixed the wet ingredients with the dry ingredients. I used a big flour bolt and sifted the dry mixed ingredients into the wet ingredients, blended everything slightly (don’t knead the dough too long) and adjusted the amount of flour to get a “non-sticky” dough.

I divided the dough into “buns” and rolled them out as thin as possible with a rolling-pin using flour both under and over. Before I used a wooden oven spatula to move the cakes into the oven, I “patterned” the griddle cakes with a “naggkavel” – a sort of knotted rolling-pin. The oven baking itself was the easy part,  the heat was perfect and I baked the griddles quick on both sides, moving them around a bit in the oven so not to stick.  I let them cool down on the net shelves and packed them in plastic bags.

More or less about 20-25 newly baked thick and tasty “Nordlandslefser/Tjukklefser – maybe not with a perfect rounded look, but as good as it gets firs timelefser lefsebaking tunnbröd äggboden gottne örnsköldsvik västernorrland baking nordlandslefser tjukklefse

Tips!

If you dont have access to cold delicious “rømme” (sour cream) -these Nordlandslefser/Tjukklefser will also taste great with a creamy mix of butter, sugar(sweetener also works) and cinnamon, just mix it and smear it on.. yummy especially for the children.

Brown cheese/Norwegian goat cheese (brunost/geitost ) also works like a charm here … and if you want to shoot further from your hips for Christmas – you can do as I did, put some saffron in parts of the dough.. holy f… 😀

Antarsberget Pokerhyllan trail running or hiking up

Antarsberget Pokerhyllan löpning trail utsikt fritid trening örnsköldsvik
Yesterday’s panorama view from Pokerhyllan – the hardest uphill run is done, downhill will be a pleasure

I have been hiking up to Antarsberget and the viewpoint Pokerhyllan since April this year when the trail was still covered with snow.. a natural place for me to go. And as a runner I yesterday finally ran up too. I guess that as a runner you always wonder if you can run up any goddamn trail you are hiking, and sometimes also carry it out… it may be a “sickness” among us 😀

pokerhyllan sverige viewpoint hiking lapphund panorama sweden norrland landscape
Jenta is too young to run with me yet, but loves to hike up to Antarsberget with me now and then – she is a tough little girl preparing for the Norwegian mountains next year.  (photo snapped in late October)

It is a pretty short trail up as this mountain/hill is not at all high, it takes just about 30 minutes to hike up (depending on your speed of course)… naturally a bit shorter if you run, but yesterday I could really feel that it has been too long since I run a real uphill like I often do during summer in Norway.. still Antarsberget will be a good replacement whenever I need that running resistance 🙂

Usually I have biked to get to the trail start – and sometimes my son follows. But with my convenient microcar (see, I’m already getting lazier .ha..ha) I can now bring my lapphund with me too – and she loves the uphill challenge!    

antarsberget gapahuk vindskydd grill trail hiking vandring picnik area
You will first reach the wind shed place where you can make a fire with fire wood or just a picnic (Please don’t burn down the old beacon!). To get to Pokerhyllan you will follow the trail a bit further to where the steep view-point area is (photo snapped in late October).
trail running vandringsled antarsberget lapphund ornskoldsvik norrland photo liss myras
The trail is pretty nice to run, a bit stony here and there to run, especially downhill again, but not a problem and so fun if you just watch your steps carefully – and it’s not too slippery (photo snapped in late October).

 

sagostig antarsberget family vandring hiking fairy tail sweden photo liss
This is also a great place to hike with your children – someone has created a cosy Sagostig “fairy-tale path” with fun characters and animals of wood and stone along the trail to make it extra exciting for children.

If you want to visit Antarsberget you will find it by driving the gravel road between Bredbyn and Mellansel to the parking lot and the trail sign starting here (Google map). – Any questions regarding this? Just send me a comment or a message.

Aurora Borealis in my courtyard

My first photos ever of the northern lights.. at last. I didn’t have to chase it at all either, just shot them (slightly frantic) right from my lil’s farms courtyard 2 nights ago. Maybe not that spectacular shots alright, but there’s room for improvements indeed right? Lots of.Aurora Borealis northern lights nordlys polarsken norrsken ornskoldsvik

Thank’s to my puppy and our final evening walk that night I discovered that the start-studded sky was running a natural green light show. I managed to run in and find the camera, fumble some settings and shoot a bit before it was too late. No I really look forward to the very next chance to “refine” my skills a bit here, they can only (hopefully) get better.

norrsken aurora borealis nordlys polar light northern lights norrland

My chicken house has never looked better under the moonshine and northern lightsNordlys northern lights aurora borealis norrland norrsken polar lights chicken house lissfit

Agnsjön lake surrounded by autumn

This week I and my fluffy puppy have discovered several nice lakes for scenic walks in beautiful autumn colours, and Agnsjön is one of them. On the map I can see that the gravel road we followed a bit goes all the way around the lake, so I’m sure it also will become a good biking and running lap for me, far away from that damn traffic. I will keep you updated how that turns out.

Mirrorlike autumn lake 

Small idyllic cabins are placed here and there along the lake’s waterline, so I guess this lake probable is more lively in summer time, but I really don’t mind the silence here now. A not so idyllic history is that this lake has taken several lives during log floating in the older days and by unstable ice in the winter.

Wonder if she see what I see? My fluffy adorable lil’ girl..

You see.. I just recently got my very first little car, a cute microcar, so our life has changed a bit because of this, as me and my son, together with our animals, are now able to get around and discover places much easier..  it actually makes the everyday life a lil’bit easier too. But I will try not to get lazy and still use my bicycle to get around frequently.

 

“Time wasted at the lake is time well spent.”