Offersøykammen hike in Lofoten

I still have a few more hikes and excursions to post from an awesome summer season in Lofoten, saving the very best ones for last. But first, for hikers that are looking for another quick, easy and thrilling hike up to a 360° panoramic view – today I give you the magnificent Offersøykammen.

Quick and nice trail up to Offersøykammen peak directly from the main road (E10). No steep sections before you get up to the top area – where it is very steep here, there and almost everywhere.. 😀Offersøykammen turjenter travelfinsk lapphund hiking

Getting there: 

As usual me and puppy took the bus from the very end of Lofoten (Å) – and jumped off at the bus stop before reaching the bridge over towards Leknes. We continued to walk about 10 minutes on the old road Offersøyveien until we reached some newer rorbu-cabins where the trail starts (there is a parking area in the other direction).

First we had to cross the main road (E10), and then we continued upwards on a nice and dusty dry trail that sunny day. There are some other trails to get up, but this is probable the quickest one. Take a look at my map below for further details.

Holding my GoPro-camera steady and keeping my curious puppy from going to near the steep edges – now that can (at times) sure be a tricky one alrightl!..ha..hatravel offersøykammen hiking fjelltur view point Lofoten

The beautiful views up there is of course stunning no matter where you choose to aim your eyes or camera. And as usual, me and puppy met other nice and curious mountains lovers from around the world on our hike, but it was thankfully not too crowded at the top that day.

One of my super nice colleagues had also made me an absolutely fantastic big nutritious sandwich of the super-tasty woodfire-baked bread from our work to enjoy at the top – that was really “icing the cake” that day.turmat sandwich Lofoten

 

Just sit down and grab your tasty sandwich – and enjoy a first class live show of nature for free! 😉
offersøykammen lofoten landscape topptur travel Norway

 

My dog really loves to hike…  here she have spotted some teasing birds in the air, better hold her well so she don’t jump over an edge to get them…offersøykammen finsk lapphund dognature landscape panoramic Lofoten

 

 

My map between the bus stops and Offersøykammen peak – click on the map to open a detailed map view 

map kart hike offersøykammen lofoten

 

So, if you have any questions regarding this hike, let me know.

Kjenndalsbreen glacier of Norway

One of my favourite alternative suggestions for visitors when I worked at the Jostedalsbreen Visitor Center was to visit Kjenndalsbreen glacier instead of Briksdalsbreen glacier. Briksdalsbreen is the most well-known and easy accessible glacier in the area, but Kjenndalsbreen is far more beautiful and much less crowded than Briksdalsbreen… and the narrow pictorial road along lake Lovatnet – leading you into the Kjenndalen glacier – will give you a godsmacking experience for sure!

The magnificent Kjenndalsbreen is a glacier spur of the main glacier Jostedalsbreen – I didn’t have a zoom lens, so this is one of the closest photo I could getKjenndalsbreen glacier

And I would not claim this if I hadn’t visited them both, Briksdalsbreen many years ago when I was attending tourism and travel-school has retreated a lot, and Kjenndalsbreen last spring/summer have retreated again too, but are still looking good – it was an absolutely breathtaking moment when the weather gods finally let the sun break through that magic evening – simply a “bellissimo viaggio”.

This was the first of 3 bicycle trips I did to Loen area when I was working in Oppstryn for a month. The weather was a bit dull & grey when I decided to pack my stuff and bicycle 35 km into the beginning of Lovatnet and stay over night.

Steep and narrow roads with great views – it is not boring I can promise you. And wow what a job to build these roads in the old days! Steep Norwegian roads Lovatnet

I intended to sleep in my tent, but when I had a “dinner-break” at Loenvatn Feriesenter I ended up getting a discount on a cabin since it was early season and I was solo. The friendly chef had a lot of knowledge about the glaciers in the area and also about the tragic history regarding the accidents at Ramnefjellet.

He also lended me a book about this, so if you want first hand information regarding these subjects, make a stop at this place! Combined with great food (their traditional “kjøttkakemiddag” is delicious – try it!), smiling faces and awesome views I had a very very nice and informative stay.

Back at the lodge that evening I went down to this little pier right below my cabin – and managed to take this nice photo of Lovatnet before the sun disappeared and the wind and rain took over during the night. Lovatn Feriesenter view

So, when I had packed up I decided to bike the remaining 17 km into Kjendalsbreen that same evening, as the weather seemed to lighten up even more. The bike trip into the glacier was a real thrill, and before the last km of gravel road starts you will have to move along some narrow steep road hammered in the mountain side…with a first class view to the rock slide wounds of the famous Ramnefjellet – wow what a magic evening!

On my way back to the cabin with the base of Ramnefjellet mountain in the background. Along this narrow road you will find information and a memorial tablet for the 74 people who died (41 never found) due to the 2 rock slides/flood waves caused by RamnefjelletLovatnet bicyel trip kjenndalen

There is a little parking lot and a outhouse at the end of the gravel road leading to Kjenndalsbreen glacier. You can fill your water bottle in the glacial river with clear conscience, just don’t fall into it. You have to walk 10-15 minutes on a trail if you want to get closer. There will be warning signs to stop you from going to close, mostly because of the falling rocks you will hear now and then from the mountain sides. It is a steep valley alright.

I found a big rock to sit on and just try to take in the magnificent views of the glacier and it’s surroundings – the glacier looks like ice candy and sugar fluff (I guess I was a lil’ bit hungry) 

At first I was totally alone there, but as the evening sun gradually broke through, 4 or 5 other persons popped up here and there to view this magnificent sight. The glacier has retired quite a bit alright, but is still an impressive sight up there with its white and blue ice. This valley will surround you with its many never-ending waterfalls, some greenery and the river flowing from the glacier in the middle – it is just one of the steepest and most beautiful valleys i have ever been to – ice-cold paradise! 

Back in the cabin for a meal and an evening sofa relax – with a view towards Lovatnet and Kjenndalsbreen at the far end of the lake. Well, good night then!loen lodge cabin view lovatnet feriesenter

Travel information/advice:

  • Stay in a cabin with great view, restaurant and bar, or hire a kayak at Loenvatn Feriesenter 
  • At the camping site Sande Camping nearby you can also rent a fishing rod
  • Before the last km gravel road you can take a break at Kjenndalstova café
  • You can also get to the cafe with the cruise boat MS Kjenndal
  • Bring a warm jacket and cap – the wind in the glacier valley can be rough

Click on the map to view it in detail live on Google MapMap Oppstryn Stryn Loen Kjenndalsbreen bicycle trip

Handmade crochet beanie of pure wool

It’s not perfect, it’s not for all, and it’s not exactly super fashionable, but it’s my own “haute couture”- and my very own first handmade garment, so I’m a lil’ bit proud today. I made this beanie of 100 % natural unprocessed wool yarn and it brought out a very special delight to plan, create and finish a piece of handwork on my own.

A white detachable and fluffy pompom as a finishing touch on the beanie top. I bet Jenta want’s to chew on it. lapphund woolk beanie handmade felted tovning tovet

Lapphund and handmade wool beanie

In Norway we have a long tradition of making good food and clothes from sheep ... (that is probable why it sounds crazy that here in Sweden they burn/throws away over 1500 tons of wool every year, wich is not ok!). Wool can be used in several other ways than just yarn i e fillings, isolation etc), and considering the displacement of our carnivores in benefit for the sheep, I think we are obligated to at least use the whole animal, and not waste most of it. Well, that was today’s politics..  😀

So, who hasn’t admired the beautiful handmade wool cardigans (kofter) in various Norwegian patterns? I have several of them myself – and have room for more, but maybe on day I can knit my own instead? So I decided to first learn myself the art of crocheting and how to read patterns… and just take it from here..

The supplementary stitches in natural white may not perfectly made, but my very first, to my defence 🙂wool beanie handmade ullue heklet crochet stiched winter pompom

As a newbie I think it was smart to start with a chunky and feltable wool yarn like Eskimo, as the felting process would let me shape and hide beginner mistakes a bit easier. It is also a bit quicker to finish up too. Below you can se my beanie before washing, felting and blocking it…. see any difference?

Before felting: The pompom was of course detached before the washing, felting and blocking process

A selfie lying in the snow – the wool pattern looks ok now, keeps the snow, wind and chill out.. what more can you require from a beanie ..oh, that’s it..it actually smells good too... mmmm.. and by the way, my old jacket here is also of 100 % wool, still going strong…  norrland handarbete virka mössa crochet

Handmade crochet beaniePeaceful learning?? I must admit.. the first two days I was struggling and swearing a lot when learning myself this handicraft … but “suddenly” I got the hang of it and all I wanted was to find some peaceful moments to just sit down and work on my first beanie… and put up a sign with “do not disturb” ..ha..ha

It really gives a well needed inner calm and a wellness feeling to just sit down and create… a bit fascinated to see that I have created some nice patterns… or may be I’m just getting old enough to appreciate moments like this more – here in Sweden they just call it “tantvarning” 😀

It started to snow a bit as you can see …I really like this place a lot, and yesterday I took a walk with my lovely lapphund dog here while doing some beanie-shots too… wool beanie handmade ull heklet crochet pompom virkat winter landscape

 

For the beanie I used:

  • Yarn: DROPS Eskimo 100 % thick pure wool – Natural and Beige colours
  • Crochet needle: 8,0mm
  • Wool needle for stitches
  • Detachable synthetic pompom (or make your own in wool)

Felting process: With the wool yarn quality type in mind (chunky Eskimo) I washed the beanie gentle by hand in wool detergent, and felted it carefully in the tumble-drier to make it more compact and tighter. I blocked it/shaped it/stretched it with needles on a paper plate during the night. Very pleased with the result.

If you have any questions regarding my beanie, just ask. I have already started on my next li’l project, so don’t stay away too long …  🙂

garn yarn eskimo crochet pure wool beanie handmade handcrafted

I love this soft, chunky ans environmentally friendly Eskimo wool yarn (Oeko-Tex® certificated

Winter Wonderland skiing Christmas

The latest days have offered absolutely super skiing conditions with sparkling sun, 7 -8 minus degrees and lots of snow everywhere. So this is how I will celebrate Christmas, cross-country skiing outdoors while enjoying this magic winter landscape ..together with my lapphund dog of course .. you know, gotta get out and workout after som delicious old-fashioned traditional Norwegian Christmas food (I will show you some more of it soon) 😉

Trying my very best to show you the magic I see out there… not that easy managing the dog, the camera and the cross-country skis at once with frozen toes and fingers – but it is absolutely doable if you want it enough ..ha..ha..vinter landskap fores winter landscape skiing scandinavia nature outdoors

 

My finnish lapphund dog Jenta is doing so well learning to run with a “skiing leash” – but sometimes she find it so much more easier (and smarter) to free-ride on my skis right behind my legs when the snow is too deep.. I fully understand her.dog lapphund cross country skiing skitur

 

Just stop, imbibe the view and silence – hoping that the wonderful feeling this gives will be burned-in to my soul .. this is my way of healing..  

 

Now I want to wish you a lovely merry Christmas, I hope you don’t stress it too much… there are so many things we don’t need to celebrate Xmas.. enjoy what is most important in life.. deep down you already know what that is… see ya very soon folks… behave.. and drive carefully!

vinter landskap nordic forest winter landscape skiing scandinavia nature outdoors

Baking Nordlandslefser in wood fired oven

Yesterday I spent an interesting and fun day in a baker’s hut surrounded by beautiful winter wonderland. I hired the hut for a symbolic amount as I wanted to try baking Norwegian traditional “Nordlandslefse” or “Tjukklefse” in a real wood-burning baking oven. I’s a kind of griddle cake my mother used to serve us, and those days we always ate them with delicious chilled “rømme” (sour cream) on them as my mother loved all kinds of milk products.. yeah..she always did her own cottage cheese too, and still doo.

The super cosy baking hut I hired for a day. It was pretty cold outside, so firing up the baking oven and some candles made it really nice, warm and Christmas-ish…  örnsköldsvik bagarstuga vedfyrt vedeldad lefser tunnbröd stuga cabin

So, I started out making a little fire in the middle of the oven, It would take at least an hour to get the oven hot enough, so in meanwhile I prepared everything I needed on the baking table and finished the dough.

The baking hut also offered a great baking-board with hight-adjustment, but I just loved this wonderful outdoor winter landscape view and stayed working on the ordinary table by the windows – you fully understand don’t you?gottne bagarstugan lefsebaking winter view wood fired baking oven hut norwegian traditions food

When the firewood was turning black-ish I divided it carefully into smaller parts and spread it around the baking griddle for more heat, when hot enough I used an ovens scrape to push the red-hot embers aside to make place for baking, finally I took a blow pipe to blow away any rests of ash – ready to bake!

Sifting the flour to get a lump-free dough – and waiting for the firewood to turn into an ember baking paradise

The first thing I learned yesterday was to be very generous with the flour, if not you will have a living hell rolling out and handling the griddle cakes in the oven .. and just don’t be too generous with the salt of hartshorn, I was pretty close to the limit here, but the great taste overruled it ..thank God!

This female grinchen hobbit is very satisfied with the result from the first time with wood fired “lefsebaking”

The last pair of “Nordlandslefser” are getting baked in the slowly dying ember – I must say that the feeling of baking in a real wood-fired oven really boost the joy of baking.. I want more!Bagarstuga lefsebaking wood-fired baking Norwegian tradition scandinavia

I really had a great time baking “tjukklefser” here, I would have stayed much longer.. but needed to be home before my son got back from school.. so, this was certainly not the last time I rented this baking hut, the lessor also dropped by for a quick visit to taste the Norwegian griddle cakes, and wished me very welcome next time… looking forward of course, I already know what to bake.

Filling up with more firewood after baking – my lil’ dog has been a real doll today too, so patient indeedörnsköldsvik bagarstuga vedfyrt vedeldad lefser tunnbröd stuga cabin

 

The recipe for Nordlandslefser (Tjukklefse) – shot directly from the hips (so approximately):

  • 250 g melted butter
  • 1 cup white baking sirup
  • 2 cups sugar
  • 2-3 cups cultured milk/kefir
  • 2 eggs (fresh from Gottne äggbod)
  • 1 – 1 1/2 teaspoon salt of hartshorn
  • 1 teaspoon baking soda
  • Ca 1 kg white flour

This is how I proceeded:

Basically I mixed the wet ingredients with the dry ingredients. I used a big flour bolt and sifted the dry mixed ingredients into the wet ingredients, blended everything slightly (don’t knead the dough too long) and adjusted the amount of flour to get a “non-sticky” dough.

I divided the dough into “buns” and rolled them out as thin as possible with a rolling-pin using flour both under and over. Before I used a wooden oven spatula to move the cakes into the oven, I “patterned” the griddle cakes with a “naggkavel” – a sort of knotted rolling-pin. The oven baking itself was the easy part,  the heat was perfect and I baked the griddles quick on both sides, moving them around a bit in the oven so not to stick.  I let them cool down on the net shelves and packed them in plastic bags.

More or less about 20-25 newly baked thick and tasty “Nordlandslefser/Tjukklefser – maybe not with a perfect rounded look, but as good as it gets firs timelefser lefsebaking tunnbröd äggboden gottne örnsköldsvik västernorrland baking nordlandslefser tjukklefse

Tips!

If you dont have access to cold delicious “rømme” (sour cream) -these Nordlandslefser/Tjukklefser will also taste great with a creamy mix of butter, sugar(sweetener also works) and cinnamon, just mix it and smear it on.. yummy especially for the children.

Brown cheese/Norwegian goat cheese (brunost/geitost ) also works like a charm here … and if you want to shoot further from your hips for Christmas – you can do as I did, put some saffron in parts of the dough.. holy f… 😀

Antarsberget Pokerhyllan trail running or hiking up

Antarsberget Pokerhyllan löpning trail utsikt fritid trening örnsköldsvik
Yesterday’s panorama view from Pokerhyllan – the hardest uphill run is done, downhill will be a pleasure

I have been hiking up to Antarsberget and the viewpoint Pokerhyllan since April this year when the trail was still covered with snow.. a natural place for me to go. And as a runner I yesterday finally ran up too. I guess that as a runner you always wonder if you can run up any goddamn trail you are hiking, and sometimes also carry it out… it may be a “sickness” among us 😀

pokerhyllan sverige viewpoint hiking lapphund panorama sweden norrland landscape
Jenta is too young to run with me yet, but loves to hike up to Antarsberget with me now and then – she is a tough little girl preparing for the Norwegian mountains next year.  (photo snapped in late October)

It is a pretty short trail up as this mountain/hill is not at all high, it takes just about 30 minutes to hike up (depending on your speed of course)… naturally a bit shorter if you run, but yesterday I could really feel that it has been too long since I run a real uphill like I often do during summer in Norway.. still Antarsberget will be a good replacement whenever I need that running resistance 🙂

Usually I have biked to get to the trail start – and sometimes my son follows. But with my convenient microcar (see, I’m already getting lazier .ha..ha) I can now bring my lapphund with me too – and she loves the uphill challenge!    

antarsberget gapahuk vindskydd grill trail hiking vandring picnik area
You will first reach the wind shed place where you can make a fire with fire wood or just a picnic (Please don’t burn down the old beacon!). To get to Pokerhyllan you will follow the trail a bit further to where the steep view-point area is (photo snapped in late October).
trail running vandringsled antarsberget lapphund ornskoldsvik norrland photo liss myras
The trail is pretty nice to run, a bit stony here and there to run, especially downhill again, but not a problem and so fun if you just watch your steps carefully – and it’s not too slippery (photo snapped in late October).

 

sagostig antarsberget family vandring hiking fairy tail sweden photo liss
This is also a great place to hike with your children – someone has created a cosy Sagostig “fairy-tale path” with fun characters and animals of wood and stone along the trail to make it extra exciting for children.

If you want to visit Antarsberget you will find it by driving the gravel road between Bredbyn and Mellansel to the parking lot and the trail sign starting here (Google map). – Any questions regarding this? Just send me a comment or a message.

Aurora Borealis in my courtyard

My first photos ever of the northern lights.. at last. I didn’t have to chase it at all either, just shot them (slightly frantic) right from my lil’s farms courtyard 2 nights ago. Maybe not that spectacular shots alright, but there’s room for improvements indeed right? Lots of.Aurora Borealis northern lights nordlys polarsken norrsken ornskoldsvik

Thank’s to my puppy and our final evening walk that night I discovered that the start-studded sky was running a natural green light show. I managed to run in and find the camera, fumble some settings and shoot a bit before it was too late. No I really look forward to the very next chance to “refine” my skills a bit here, they can only (hopefully) get better.

norrsken aurora borealis nordlys polar light northern lights norrland

My chicken house has never looked better under the moonshine and northern lightsNordlys northern lights aurora borealis norrland norrsken polar lights chicken house lissfit

Agnsjön lake surrounded by autumn

This week I and my fluffy puppy have discovered several nice lakes for scenic walks in beautiful autumn colours, and Agnsjön is one of them. On the map I can see that the gravel road we followed a bit goes all the way around the lake, so I’m sure it also will become a good biking and running lap for me, far away from that damn traffic. I will keep you updated how that turns out.

Mirrorlike autumn lake 

Small idyllic cabins are placed here and there along the lake’s waterline, so I guess this lake probable is more lively in summer time, but I really don’t mind the silence here now. A not so idyllic history is that this lake has taken several lives during log floating in the older days and by unstable ice in the winter.

Wonder if she see what I see? My fluffy adorable lil’ girl..

You see.. I just recently got my very first little car, a cute microcar, so our life has changed a bit because of this, as me and my son, together with our animals, are now able to get around and discover places much easier..  it actually makes the everyday life a lil’bit easier too. But I will try not to get lazy and still use my bicycle to get around frequently.

 

“Time wasted at the lake is time well spent.”

Svalbard

So, what can you do when the heat is “unbearable”(I can’t stand it) and the pollen allergy is becoming a real pain ..well, you could escape to a better place –  Svalbard!

I decided to jumped on a short budget stay in Longyearbyen – and here I am now this late evening, sitting alone in the chilly wind enjoying the midnight sun, fresh air and some spectacular and rough landscapes near my stay – about halfway between Norway and the North Pole.  So, let’s find out what my dear homeland have been hiding from me up here for so long among these glaciers, mountains and permfrost.

Selfie: Late evening view towards Sarkofagen (to the left) 

svalbard norway landscape photograph liss myras

I will be back soon for updates and some travel info – so stay tuned 🙂

Norway Bike Hike (Part 2): Galdhøpiggen and Jotunheimen

So the bike tour continued to roll. I fully enjoyed this feeling of freedom with no obligations, no time to keep and no strict plan. I made a lot of stops, mostly because I was not able to shut down my always observing “photoeye” – everything is interesting! Just like during my warmup bikehike-tour to Åndalsnes and Romsdalseggen 

The hospitality I met most places was really a joy.. so welcoming and helpful people, but still not pushing. Most of the time I didn’t at all feel alone as most people are very curious about what you’re up to, especially when you are “solotripp’n” I believe, and as a solo traveller you will pretty soon connect with other solo travellers from all over the world – awesome!

Billingen in Skjåk: Did a morning stopover here and was served a supertasty local produced breakfast by the lovely owner – afterwards I went out to do a spontaneous “poem-track” upwards the frothing river Tora before I continued my bike ride – such a cool experience and some wise words richer! This is also a gateway into beautiful Breheimen Nationalpark and Reinheimen NationalparkNorway Billingen Tora foss Breheimen Nasjonalpark diktarstig Jan Magnus Bruheim skjak photo liss myrås

 

Along RV15 you will have a 360 degrees of magnificent landscape views … but by the time I passed Grotli Høyfjellshotell the traffic had increased with more heavy traffic, however, as long as the road could offer me a shoulder it worked very well (see tip below). And fortunately (with a few exceptions) most drivers DO make allowance for cyclists. After bargaining a night in a cosy cabin along the way to dry up my equipment, a lil’ morning trek and tasty breakfast stopover at Billingen, I continued towards Lom national park village in Bøverdalen and Jotunheimen

Reaching Lom I decided to stay a couple of nights. so I set up my tent pretty near the always roaring river Bøvra at a camp site – of course with a beautiful view to the surrounding mountains, but please bear in mind that you may need ear plugs if you want to sleep near this river  😉

After a massive burger & fries dinner together with a chilled cider I decided to take an evening walk to check out the famous Lom Stave Church for some historical inspiration and design admiration – dated back to the 12th century! Lom stavkirke stave church Norwegian attraction history oppland photo liss myrås

 

The very next day I actually had a lil’ plan – to climb Galdhøpiggen – the roof of Norway also the highest mountain in Scandinavia and Northern Europe at a hight of 2,469 m (8,100 ft) – we just call it Piggen in Norwegian.

The rising sun was promising and the morning bus brought a nice bunch of mountain hikers & climbers up the serpentine road and into the Jotunheimen National Park. Since we had to cross the glacier Styggebreen we needed harness and safety ropes, but otherwise this is a not a hard climb and suites most healthy people,families .. and dogs.

Packet with mountain lovers at the end of Styggebreen clacier: After an exceptionally grey summer the sun finally glitters and illicit hordes of people to enjoy this fun and beautiful day – not exactly a day for those who seeks silence and tranquility – but for a change I actually loved to be among all these smiling faces    Norway mountaineering Galdhøpiggen styggebreen juvasshytta jotunheimen photo Liss Myras

 

NOTE! On our way down we met two tourists not wearing any equipment crossing the glacier Styggebreen, and they did not care at all that a guide warned them. This annoys me a lot, as I see it as lack of respect for nature and to use common sense in the mountains. And what kind of signals does this send out to others? It is really cheap to join a guided tour with necessary equipment at Juvasshytta! (It will only cost you 175 NOK)

 

In our “rope lane” we were accompanied by this absolutely charming and adorable samoyed dog – very energetic and also very photogenic …and of course posing like a king on the roof of Norway! 🙂Galdhopiggen jotunheimen Norway mountain lom samoyed mountaineering photo liss myaas

 

This day was 1 of only 5 sunny days on Piggen during the whole summer a guy told us – so we where lucky! The Norwegian army paid us a flyby-visit at the top of Galdhøpiggen with one of their hercules ..to celebrate an awesome day. Many of us screamed when the air plane passed, it sure did look like it would crash right into the top hut ..ha…ha whohaaa!piggen herkules mountains

A flying view 

 

Back at the Juvasshytta we where a little bunch of very pleased people just sitting outside relaxing in the wonderful weather with some hot chocolate and candy, waiting for the experienced and kind bus driver to take us back down. I only have one important reminder/advice for days like this..to save you a lot of pain: PLEASE …bring your highest sun protection!

 

Morning glory trek somewhere in Skjåk before hitting the road ….Norway Oppland Skjak Nysætervattnet water landscape photo liss myrås

 

To be continued…..

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Some trip advice for travellers in Norway:

Travelling solo? Ask for a discount:

Now and then (especially if you’re bike touring) you want to rent a cabin to rearrange, fix and dry all your stuff (clothes, tent, sleeping bag, shoes etc) – mention that you travel alone and you may get a discount, very appreciated since renting cabins in Norway usually isn`t a cheap experience.

 

Local produced food, poems and national parks:

Billingen Seterpensjonat in Skjåk will serve you local produced products, breakfast and room. Also a gate to Breheimen Nasjonalpark, Reinheimen Nasjonalpark and the “Diktarstigen” where you can trek along the Tora river and read poems by Jan Magne Bruheim.  View their Facebook-page. 

 

Plenty of outdoor activities and adventures to do in Lom:

Make sure you spend enough time in the Lom (preferably at a decent price at one of the camping sites or Bøverdalen hostel if you’re on budget like me). There is so much to do in this area both for sports and mountain lovers or nature seekers that 2 days are far from enough…try out zip-lining across Prestefossen, climb a bunch of 2000-meter mountains, go into the ice world at the Climate Park (Klimaparken) or visit Norsk Fjellmusem.

 

Along road 63 and RV15 from Djupvasshytta to Lom you have 3 great national parks around (Right before you enter the RV15 from63 you can choose to take off and bike most of this stretch on a parallel road with much less traffic! – unfortunately I am not sure about conditions for this “cabins road”)

Jotunheimen Nasjonalpark

Reinheimen Nationalpark

Breheimen Nationalpark

 

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Map of Part 2 from Djupvasshytta to Lom + the 3 surrounding national parks

Norway bike map djupvasshytta lom bicicyle tour part 2 breheimen jotunheimen reinheimen liss myras

Norway Bike Hike (Part 1): Geiranger and Norddal

The goal was neither to go highest, deepest, fastest, furthest or toughest – I would bike, hike and rest whenever and wherever I wanted – no stress – just be!  Finally the time had come for my very own “10-day-moment” and my trek bike was packed and ready to roll on a roadtrip. The Norwegian highway was waiting with its amazing mountains, fjords and solid people – once again I would curiously explore my own country.

Selfie: My very last mountain trek in Trafjordfjella before hitting the road, where I discovered this beautiful panoramic pearl that very day. Well, what a view to be leaving, but new one’s where waitingnorwegian mountain tafjordfjella fjelltur natur panorama liss myrås 

The bike trip plan had been yeasting somewhere in the back of my head all summer when I worked at the  power and avalance center in Tafjord, but it was not before I got my hands on a very cheap but solid Polish trek bike that I knew I would be biking home to visit my momma before heading back to Sweden where I live now.

A panoramic break at Eidsvatnet (Norddal) to enjoy this awesome mountain ridge named Skorene – it’s hhest point is Søre Skora wich is 1829 meters a.s.l Norway Skorene Norddal mountain ridge foto Liss Myrås

 

I collected the most essential bicycle equipment a little bit from here and there, something new, old and borrowed, and briefly planned possible bicycle routes and tent camps online … the rest would probably solve itself gradually on-the-road. I would say: Plan your trip to death = stress and disappointments! But one thing is important to plan when you bike in Norway – know where your tunnels are! (see link below)

So, what could be seen, done or enjoyd these 10 days I had for my very own disposal before going back to daily routines, duties and tasks piling in the horizon? Nature, nature and nature… and awesome wonderful people!! ♥

Looking back to Geiranger somewhere between those mountains – you will never get tired of the view!Norway bicycle ride Geiranger road landscape photo liss myrås

I did’t have a clue that my total bike luggage weighed well over 25 kilos! I had two filled waterproof sidebags, a handlebar bag and my tent roped on the handlebars, a waterproof stuff sack containing my sleeping bag on the luggage carrier, and finally a backpack containing my laptop and camera etc Not to forget new led lights, reflections in many forms… and of course my nice cool reflex pennant! 😉 It’s so goddamn important to be seen on the roads and in tunnels!

First aimed stopover was the famous Geiranger, so that day in August I finally rolled on my bike down the first hill away from my hired summer residence – a bit worried that the bike would violently puncture or collapse after a few meters, but it worked like a charm – all the way actually!

First through the scary Heggurdtunnelen for the very last time that summer …. passing Valldal and then taking the ferry across the fjord to Eidsdal and started the mild ascent up to Eagle Road (Ørnevegen).

From Ørnevegen everything went downwards the awesome serpentine roads only interrupted by a short obligatory photo shoot break at the famous Ørnesvingen. The nice thing about biking is that you also can stop on tricky places where cars can’t to get a great shot!

Shot on my way down Eagle Road (Ørnevegen) towards GeirangerNorway Geiranger Ørnevegen bike trip photo liss myrås

 

I did not feel for stopping when I passed the little town in Geiranger because it was just packed with lots of tourists, noicy aggressive buses and cars – this is not how I remember Geiranger from my younger days. I talked to a local that was pretty tired of this circus, tourists come into thei’r private garden and stare at them through the windows while they are having breakfast…  ha..ha ..so visitors, please behave! 😀

Geiranger tent camping bike tour sunset photo liss myrås

 

So, I continued up the narrow and steeper sperpentine road that eventually would lead me to Djupvasshytta the day after. Halfway ascending I decided to spend the night at a cosy and peaceful camping. After a beautifulsunsetit rained all night, but my very cheap and light tent actually did not leak! Greatful for that indeed I am! The sun finally showed up at noon next day so I could dry my tent in the wind at no-time and continue up the panoramic road ascent up to Djupvasshytta where gale wind was waiting.

Welcomed by gale wind and rain when I finally reached the plateau close to Djupvasshytta (where I enjoyed a massive waffle-dinner.) From now the roads would slightly incline downwards – very nice after two ascents.  

Oppe på fjellet mot Djupvasshytta

 

The tunnel map for bikers below was indeed very helpful – in this way I could see when, where and how to prepare for every tunnel and readabout other bikers experiences. Especially useful when you bicycle along the Norwegian coast (I will find time to contribute the map with my own experience since one of the byroads was a bit dangeours):

Norwegian tunnel map

 

To be continued… 😉

Naturen i sockervadd

Fanns inte en chans att låta bli morgonens cykeltur på mtb:n – vädret bjöd ju på glittriga ispartiklar i luften och ett frostad landskap efter nattens dimfrost. Ett riktigt favoritläge för mig som gillar naturfotografering – dimfrosten har ändrat landskapet till läckerbitar där naturen ser utt att vara innhyllad i sockervadd! Mums!

sweden frosty winter landscape experiment photo liss myrås

Dagens bild ovan blev jag riktigt nöjd med – och jag tycker inte om att editera ihjal en bild too much, men mest bara göra naturliga förbättringar. Fast ikväll har jag testat en “mirroring effect” och fick med ett enda klick denna dubberade spegelbilden – ja man skall då ha det lite kul med foto också. Och tack till bonden som lät mig traska runt på hans mark imorse 🙂

Visste du att:

Dimfrost (inte helt det samma som rimfrost) bildas vid tätt fuktdis eller dimma och minusgrader. Den uppstår på vindsidan av upprättstående föremål och dylikt när antingen underkylda dimdroppar fryser till is eller när vattenånga direkt övergår i iskristaller.

Källa och mer info på: SMHI

Viltbiologi i Umeå

Nu är slitna huvudet fylld med vilda tankar.. altså, efter en snörik och “djurisk” weekend vid Umeå universitet har man fått så mycket nytt och intressant att tugga på – fram tills nesta studiemöte här uppe i norr…  riktigt lärorikt och trevligt att få träffa så många kunskapsrika människor från hela Sveriges land med så olikartade erfarenheter, jag tycker mig kunna lära nestan lika mycket av själva diskussionerna emellan oss studenter som av föreläsningarna och hemmaläsningen – en lyckad kombination med fullspäckad klassrum!

Denna första weekend har vi bl a nosat på relavanta områder inom biologi, ekologi, jakträtt, viltförvaltning/vård, skogsförvaltning och småvilt. Och idag en av mina favoriter, Sveriges 5 största rovdjur, och jag tänkte ju återkomma med en mer matig uppdatering från nesta studieweekend i  Umeå, för då bär det ut i fälten på spårningsexkursion (på skidor om vädret tillåter det) whohoo – do stay tuned folks!

Många vet nog redan att lodjuret är en rovdjursfavorit hos mig, så jag bjuder lika gärna på en bild jag tog i Järvsö viltpark vid den här årstiden ifjol – bilden fick även en del “features” på Instagram – kul!foto liss myrås gaupe lodjur lynx wild animal rovdjur

en mycket pratglad lohona – ser verkligen fram till att återse denna damen igen 

 

Romsdalseggen

Provcyklings-tour!

I den rätt så isolerade fjordbygden jag arbetade i blev man nestan tvungen att skaffa sig något att rulla på – valet föll på en skitbillig trek-cykel som levererades på dörren. Med lite hjälp från den goa hjälpsamma lokalbefolkningen fick vi mekat ihop cykeln som jag kliade efter att få prova på “långtur”.

Innan dess hade jag “bara” cyklat enstaka turar uppåt fjällvägarna för att vandra i fjällen. Lite mindre lyxigt var det att vänja sig till en tung 26-tums trekbike när man e van med en lätt 29-tums mtb  – ungefär som att glida på en go gammal Apache-cykel annon 197-talet! – ja ja, jag har då alldrig varit fisfiin på det, man fick helt enkelt använda lite mer av sin egen styrka och uthållighet 😉

Under hela sommaren har jag cyklat upp till början på fjällstigarna och fortsatt uppstigningarna till fots – kort sagt bike-hike’s. Man har ju heller inget val när man inte har bil. Den här turen var inget undantag, bara lite längre cykelsträcka. Vad som lockar är inget att undra på – det är kombinationen av något man älskar att få göra – och den här vyn förstås… 😉 Romsdalseggen Trollveggen telt utsikt Romsdal Foto Liss Myrås

 

Let’s roll!

Morgonen för avfärd kom och jag hade packat min dagsäck med mitt älskade kamera etc, en vattentät packsäck (till 50 spänn!) rymde mina nödvandigaste grejer och spändes fast till pakethållaren. Kameraväskan surrades fast som frontkorg på cykeln med några lätt-till-hands-prylar i … och att cykla i trekkingskorna sparade ju plats också. Cykelväskorna och andra “måste-ha” var inte kommit i posten än, men det gick då att lösa förvaringen på andra sätt.

Mitt första “hinder” var att ta mig igenom värstingen Heggurdtunnelen som jag var lite skrajsen för – såå låång (5,3 km), mörk, smal, kall, tom, våt ..och utan ventilation – och med den rasövervakade Hegguraksla väntande på andra sidan. Jag svalde den stora klumpen i halsen, slog på alla lyktor, drog upp buffen över näsan och trampade ensam in i mörkret….. vågade inte ens byta växel ifall det skulle strula där inne… småchattde även lite med min döda katt ifall han kunde skicka mig några tröstande tankar där inne, småknäppt jorå ..hi..hi.. Men igenom kom man då till slut…

Väl igenom värstingen Heggurdtunnelen kunde jag lättad stoppa upp och blicka tillbacka på morgonens strålande vy – och äntligen sol! Vilken jävla tur man har ibland! 🙂

Tafjorden Heggurdtunellen sykkeltur norwegian fjords foto liss myrås

 

Uppåt mot fjällpasset

Vid Valldal tog jag till höger och in på den den nationella turistvägen som går mellan Geiranger till Åndalsnes…. gradvis börjar nu vägen stiga i lagom takt, och jag kunde njuta de maffiga turkosiga floderna Valldøla och Rauma som glider, forsar eller bullrar längs hela vägen upp mot fjällpasset… man har friskt kallt vatten tillgängligt – all the time!

Gott om skräckhistorier och varningar fick man höra innan nerturen på Trollstigen, men för mig blev det förstås en upptur neråt….  det var inte så mycket trafik just då tycker jag, så med solens strålar och vind i håret susade jag falskt sjungande neråt den slingrande stigen …som bara avbröts av små förtjusta skrik när man passerade de då välfyllda vattenfallen som stänkte iskallt vatten över mig och cykeln…

Väl uppe vid fjällpasset kunde jag äntligen skåda stågliga Kongen och Bispen till vänster (ja Dronningen finns ju där bakom – precis som en kvinna bak varje successrika man) – och där börjar också Trollstigen slingra sig neråt – man såg förstås fram till en rejäl  “opptur” neråt!!   Bike hike cykeltur Åndalsnes Rauma Romsdal foto Liss Myrås

 

Framme i Åndalsnes

Jag anlände till slut Åndalsnes Vandrerhjem där jag skulle bo i 3 nätter. Det är nog det absolut trevligaste vandrarhemmet jag någonsin bodd på, både de som jobbar där och boende som jag träffade där skapade en underbar atsmosfär den helgen… sånt ger ju extra goda minnen!

Inte att undra på att jag känner mig hemma i Åndalsnes – jag bodde här tills jag var 2 år då min far (som inte längre lever) kom från denna lilla mysiga by. Så lite kännsloladdad blev det ju ibland, särskilt när jag ena dagen cyklade runt Isfjorden och bl a besökte stenkyrkan jag döptes i. Träffade också en rad trevliga folk som känt mina släktingar här, så man fick lite mer info. bikehike cykeltur Åndalsnes Isfjord foto liss myrås

 

Nu var man ju inte enbart ute och cyklade här – man skulle ju upp och härja i fjällheimen också. Ja äntligen skulle jag få kliva och vandra längs den berömda Romsdalseggen. Och med det strålande vädret som äntligen infunnit sig hade man en fantastisk dag framför sig!

Efter cykelturen runt Isfjorden gick jag en sväng ner till sjön precic nedanför vandrarhemmet och bara njöt av den vackra solnedgången just där floden Rauma rinner ut i Romsdalsfjorden – tillsammans med lite musik i hörlurarna och en svalkande iskall cider… life’s good…  Åndalsnes Rauma Romsdalsfjorden landskap foto Liss Myrås

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Upp på Romsdalseggen 

Morgonen startade med en tjock dimmig uppstigning från Venjesdalssetra upp till första “platået”. Därifrån började man att kliva brantare uppåt i tjock snö – och med en fabbulous vy mot Venjetindan som skar sig stolta igenom morgondimman.

Väl uppe fick jag sansa mig något och gradvis vänja mig till de stupbranta panoramavyerna (ja ni vet, min höjdrädslan spökar ju fortfarande) … man får totalt haksläpp av de galet vackra och varierade synen där uppe, en mix av den turkosa fjorden, de snötackta fjälltopparna, den mörka taggiga trollveggen och den slingrande glittrande floden där nere – toppad av lätta små molnfluff som gled runt lite här och där  – godsmacked once again!

Bergstoppar i all ära – jag stortrivs lika bra med att få gå längs långa bergsryggar – då e man ju på topp så mycket längre också …hi..hi 😉Romsdalseggen Åndalsnes Romsdalsfjorden liss myrås

 

Här och där låg det fortfarande snö längs ryggen, men inte värre än att man kunde gå över eller små omvägar – dock liite läskigt med “snötrappan“, men man tog sig då upp. Halsaskaret är välkänt med sina branta och “luftiga” partier,  så ibland fick man kliva och hålla sig i wires eller kedjor – men de flesta fixar det! (Annars finns det en mer familjvänlig stig att svänga av på tidigare vid 840 m höjd)

 

Alla tidspuckon – shut up!

Något obegripligt är väl den typiska frågan om hur många timmar man klarade att göra hela turen längs Romsdalseggen på  –  altså, var det något jag verkligen sket i denna dag så var det väl att följa klockan! Vad hände med att verkligen njuta av ögonblicken , sitta och slänga på en knaus här och där, ta en bra bild eller to eller tre, käka och prata med människor man träffar??? Det MÅSTE väl för f… inte vara prestige i varje steg man tar! I såfall får man väl anmäla sig till Romsdalseggen-løpet då huh! 😉

Vy mot trollveggen och trollska tindar – inga fagra ord gör väl egentligen den här vyen någon rättvisa, man måste nog vara där och uppleva själv….  Romsdalseggen Trollveggen Åndalsnes Romsdal Foto Liss Myrås

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Trollstigen upp i 30 värmegrader

Efter en alldeles fantastisk weekend i Åndalsnes var det dags att cykla sig tillbaka till Tafjord igen för att jobba vidare. I närmare 30 värmegrader skulle man nu upp Trollstigen igen med cykel och bagage … tack alla godingar som hejdade och peppade mig på väg upp serpentinvägarna – de där belgiska våfflorna med sylt och grädde smakade förträffligt väl uppe på toppen! 😀

Trollstigen biking norway cykeltur foto liss myrås

Upp dit igen i värmen, fast lite skugga fick man då ibland från ena bergssidan beroende på sidan man passerade svängarna på – jag roade mig mest med de spektakulära vyarna.. och med att betrakta en och annan lätt panikslagen bobilchaffis.

Bergskred, vattenkraft och tsunamis

I närmare 3 månader arbetade jag i Norge – och vilket intressant jobb! För sånna som mig som älskar naturen och naturkrafterna så fanns man nu mitt i smarrigaste smörögat mellan Geiranger och Åndalsnes. Varje morgon vaknade jag i den pyttelilla bygden Tafjord med underbar vy mot branta frodiga berg, snötäckta fjälltoppar och fjordarmen de stupar ner i.

Upp till denna gården gick (eller sprang) jag ofta längsmed 13 hårnålssvängarn till topps. Muldalen heter området och man kan skymta ett av de högsta fria vattenfallen i Norge på bilden med närmare 190 m fritt fall. muldalen moreogromsdal foto liss myrås

Kraftcentret jag jobbade vid rymmer olika avdelningar som är knutna till varandra, och en av mina uppgifter var att ta hand om alla som kom dit och guida dem runt i det stora bygget. (Och det var förstås extra jul när det kom svenskar dit ibland!) 🙂

Bra att få inblick i hur man vid hjälp av vattenkraft, turbiner och generatorer skapar förnybar energi – och tänk vilket otroligt tufft och hårt arbete som lades ner på att montera upp kraftlinjerna i den vilda otyglade naturen i de dagar!

Och visst är väl de intakta maskinerna, golvet samt inredningarnas läckra färger och former också läckra, ja de visste hur design och kvalitet skulle se ut i de dagar vattenkraftverket byggdes.turbin generator vattenkraft tafjord foto liss myrås

En avdelning handlar om “Tafjord-ulykken” våren 1934 där 40 människor omkom. Ett bergsparti på ca 3 miljoner kubikmeter(m³) rasade från 730 m höjd ner i fjorden och orsakade en tsunami som forsade fram längs den trånga fjordarmen och tog med sig både hus, hem och hela familjer som låg i sin djupaste nattesömn – många blev alldrig återfunna. “Såret” efter raset i bergsveggen är gott synligt än idag (jag kunde se det från mitt köksfönster).

Ett av centrets fönster vänder direkt ut mot mystiska  Jimdalen (låg dimma den dagen jag tog bilden) – ett vackert ställe man tyvärr inte längre tillråds att vandra i på grund av hög rasrisk. Senaste raset i 1992 var kring 100 m brett och täckte hela bygden med ett tjockt lager damm från berget – och skrämde många med sitt hämska buller &bråk.  tafjord fjell skred jimdalen foto liss myrås norway

Min favoritavdelning är förstås skredsalen på 3 våningen som var mer geologiskt inriktad. Här visade jag bl a fram sten- och mineralsamlingen och berättade för besökande att de nu befann sig bland Norges allra farligaste berg, nämligen Hegguraksla precis ut i fjorden, Åkneset (Åkerneset) lite längre ut mot Geiranger samt Mannen några mil mot Åndalsnes. Dessa berg övervakas förstås kontonuerligt då föjlderna av när (inte om) dessa kommer rasa ut kan bli katastrofala.

I tillägg kunde jag visa fram centrets 20 m långa borrprov från Åkneset, diverse mätinstrumenter samt analyser av förväntade våghöjder vid “worst case scenarios” (i Geiranger väntas upp til ca 70 m våghöjd – och i Hellesylt 85 m!) – skrämmande ja, men dock ohört intressant – och det samma tyckte de besökande! Det är många som inte vet vad det innebär att bo i vackra fjällandskap som detta.

Under sommaren arrangerade centret också populära forskarcamps för de yngre, samt ett informationsmöte med bl a polisen, geologer och ordförande som jag också närvarade för att lära mer om läget. Huvudärendet var då att säkerhetssonerna blivit höjts ytterligare för väntade vågor/trunamis.

I skredsalen visade jag fram några av de mätinstrumenter som används till att övervaka de farligaste bergen, på bilden ser du ett tiltmeter, crackmeter, prism samt ett riktigt tungt och rejält strekkstag (extensometer)måleintrument strekkstag tiltmeter prisme crackmeter geologi foto liss myrås

Via mitt arbete förvärvade jag även det norska Brattkortet (tillsvarar både rött och grönt klätterkort i Sverige). Så vissa arbetsdagar basade jag enbart i den 12 m högaklätterväggen där jag instruerade och säkrade klättersugna besökare. Ganska häftigt å se när totalt otippade personer visar sig ha en utomordentlig viljakraft i klätterväggen – awesome!

klatrevegg klättervägg norge liss myrås

De flesta i Tafjordfjella och vissa andre bergsområden fick vänta tills långt ut i juli månad innan man kunde ta sig upp på fjälltopparna – mycket snö senaste vintern och en kall vår – men den som väntar på något gott.. just det, tålamod .  

Tafjordfjella muldalen nausen foto liss myrås

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Många finfina fjellturer, löpturer och cykelturer blev det iallafall i sommar – ni skall få några tips så småningom –  I’l be back..soon.. so stay tuned friends 😉

Har ni tråkig kan ni ju kika på den norska trailern av Bølgen som hade premiär i slutet av augusti i år – en något “amerikaniserad” katastroffilm om just Åkneset.